
{"id":9185,"date":"2016-11-08T12:52:41","date_gmt":"2016-11-08T09:52:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/?p=9185"},"modified":"2016-11-08T13:12:58","modified_gmt":"2016-11-08T10:12:58","slug":"1840-1940-veacul-de-aur-al-restaurantelor-bucurestene-partea-a-2-a","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2016\/11\/08\/1840-1940-veacul-de-aur-al-restaurantelor-bucurestene-partea-a-2-a\/","title":{"rendered":"1840-1940, veacul de aur al restaurantelor bucurestene. Partea a 2 a."},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Vom vorbi in aceast\u0103 parte a interesantului nostru articol, despre influen\u0163ele fran\u0163uze\u015fti \u015fi cele germane, in buc\u0103t\u0103riile restaurantelor bucure\u015ftene din acea perioada.<\/p>\n<p>In 1842, \u201eAnuarul Prin\u0163ipatului \u0162\u0103rii Rom\u00e2ne\u015fti\u201d recomanda str\u0103inilor care soseau in capitala Principatelor Rom\u00e2ne 4 \u201ebirturi\u201d deschise recent \u015fi anume : \u201ebirtul Teatrului, al Cazinului, al Leului de Aur \u015fi al Rom\u00e2nimii\u201d. Se f\u0103cea precizarea c\u0103 aceste localuri aveau pre\u0163uri \u201ede consum\u201d suficient de piperate, av\u00e2nd in vedere ca la acea vreme, alimentele din pia\u0163\u0103 erau foarte ieftine, in compara\u0163ie cu pre\u0163ul m\u00e2nc\u0103rurilor g\u0103tite.<\/p>\n<p>Dovada c\u0103 o asemenea afacere avea \u201edever\u201d bun, in timpul Domniilor Regulamentare s-au mai deschis multe restaurante \u201eevropene\u015fti\u201d de acest fel.<\/p>\n<p>Avocatul parizian Thibault-Lefebvre, care viziteaz\u0103 Bucure\u015ftiul in anii 1853, scrie in insemn\u0103rile sale de c\u0103l\u0103torie c\u0103 \u201eaici sunt restaurante fran\u0163uze\u015fti, nem\u0163e\u015fti \u015fi rom\u00e2ne\u015fti\u201d. Cele din urm\u0103, mai pu\u0163in preten\u0163ioase, erau accesibile pungilor modeste, de\u015fi aceasta nu insemna consumatori s\u0103raci, ci \u201eburjui de mahala\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Spre deosebire de alte localuri, buc\u0103t\u0103riile acestora g\u0103teau m\u00e2nc\u0103rurile noastre tradi\u0163ionale, incep\u00e2nd cu ciorbele \u2013 <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2010\/07\/30\/409-ciorba-de-porc-a-la-grec\/\">de porc<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2010\/07\/30\/410-ciorba-de-vitel-a-la-grec\/\">de vit\u0103<\/a> ( in condi\u0163iile in care bor\u015ful nu era cunoscut inc\u0103 !) \u2013 \u015fi continu\u00e2nd cu ceea ce se numeau \u201em\u00e2nc\u0103rurile sc\u0103zute\u201d \u2013 multe cu denumiri turce\u015fti \u2013 semn ca influen\u0163a otoman\u0103 era foarte puternic\u0103 : <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2012\/07\/20\/musaca-de-macaroane-696\/\">musaca<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2010\/08\/17\/855-ciulama-de-rinichi-de-porc-cu-mamaliguta\/\">ciulama<\/a>, tuzlama, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2012\/01\/27\/pilaf-de-curcan-%e2%80%93-1043\/\">pilaf<\/a> \u2013 \u015fi termin\u00e2nd cu \u201epr\u0103jelile\u201d sau fripturile la gr\u0103tar.<\/p>\n<p>In celelalte localuri, ceva mai simandicoase se serveau \u201econsomme-uri\u201d, \u201efondue\u201d (un fel de fripturi in\u0103bu\u015fite, stropite cu sosuri de vin sau caramelizate) \u015fi legume despre care nu se \u015ftia prea mult in acea epoc\u0103 : \u201evarza de Bruxelles\u201d ori \u201ebroccoli\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Restaurantele nem\u0163e\u015fti, singurele care in acea perioada vindeau \u015fi bere &#8211; scump\u0103 la pre\u0163 c\u0103ci era adus\u0103 in butoaie tocmai din Germania \u2013 erau \u015fi ele destul de numeroase.<\/p>\n<p>C\u0103l\u0103torul german W. Derblich, care a z\u0103bovit c\u00e2\u0163iva ani in Romania Mic\u0103, in perioada Unirii Principatelor, noteaz\u0103 in insemn\u0103rile sale nu mai pu\u0163in de 13 localuri, cu un asemenea specific : \u201eLa Cerb\u201d; \u201eLa Epure\u201d; \u201eLa Vulpe\u201d; \u201eLa Inger\u201d; \u201eLa Leu\u201d; \u201eLa Calea Ferata\u201d; \u201eLa Coroana\u201d; \u201eLa Clopot\u201d; \u201eLa Trandafir\u201d; \u201eLa Telegraf\u201d (deschis publicului tocmai cu ocazia inaugur\u0103rii primei linii telegrafice de la noi) ; \u201eLa Elvetia\u201d; \u201eLa Judecator\u201d \u015fi \u201eLa Ferdinand\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Acela\u015fi Derblich precizeaz\u0103 c\u0103 specificul nem\u0163esc al acestor restaurante vine de la asem\u0103narea cu osp\u0103t\u0103riile unor hanuri din Bavaria sau Brandenburg, unde mesele lungi \u015fi innegrite de coate se pierd printre namilele de butoaie cu bere. Se beau r\u00e2uri de bere doar din halbe de metal, se m\u00e2nca mai mul\u0163i <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2010\/07\/30\/398-ciorba-de-carnati-creier-si-carne-cu-zeama-de-varza\/\">carna\u0163i <\/a>scur\u0163i \u015fi ar\u015fi, iar fumul de \u0163igar\u0103 il po\u0163i t\u0103ia cu cu\u0163itul.<\/p>\n<p>La mese nu se vorbe\u015fte pe un ton normal, ci se r\u0103cne\u015fte ori se r\u00e2de in hohote.<\/p>\n<p>Halbele sunt din metal pentru c\u0103 mesenii le rastoarna destul de des \u015fi chiar le scap\u0103 pe jos. Dac\u0103 ar fi fost din sticla, proprietarul ar fi avut pagube importante ptr c\u0103 foarte multe halbe s-ar fi spart.<\/p>\n<p>Existen\u0163a acestor localuri nem\u0163e\u015fti era, cel mai adesea, efemer\u0103, pentru c\u0103 disp\u0103reau tot a\u015fa de repede pe cum ap\u0103reau.<\/p>\n<p>In alte cazuri, potrivit aceluia\u015fi c\u0103l\u0103tor german, unele din aceste localuri \u201eschimbau intr-un an c\u00e2te \u015fase st\u0103p\u00e2ni\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Trebuie men\u0163ionat \u015fi faptul c\u0103 tot in acea perioad\u0103 s-a deschis \u015fi un restaurant nem\u0163esc ce, peste ani, a devenit \u015fi a ramas celebru : CARU&#8217; CU BERE, de\u015fi patronul s\u0103u era un ardelean, care nu avea nici o leg\u0103tura cu Germania.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/2016\/11\/07\/1840-1940-veacul-de-aur-al-restaurantelor-bucurestene-partea-1\/\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-9188\" src=\"http:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/caru-cu-bere.png\" alt=\"caru-cu-bere\" width=\"455\" height=\"280\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/caru-cu-bere.png 455w, https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/caru-cu-bere-300x185.png 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 455px) 100vw, 455px\" \/>1840-1940, veacul de aur al restaurantelor bucurestene. Partea 1.<\/a><\/p>\n<p><font color=\"#B4B4B4\" size=\"-2\">Post Footer automatically generated by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.freetimefoto.com\/add_post_footer_plugin_wordpress\" style=\"color: #B4B4B4; text-decoration:underline;\">Add Post Footer Plugin<\/a> for wordpress.<\/font><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Vom vorbi in aceast\u0103 parte a interesantului nostru articol, despre influen\u0163ele fran\u0163uze\u015fti \u015fi cele germane, in buc\u0103t\u0103riile restaurantelor bucure\u015ftene din acea perioada. In 1842, \u201eAnuarul Prin\u0163ipatului \u0162\u0103rii Rom\u00e2ne\u015fti\u201d recomanda str\u0103inilor care soseau in capitala Principatelor Rom\u00e2ne 4 \u201ebirturi\u201d deschise recent \u015fi anume : \u201ebirtul Teatrului, al Cazinului, al Leului de Aur \u015fi al Rom\u00e2nimii\u201d. Se [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[3],"tags":[997,56,996],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9185"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=9185"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9185\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9189,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9185\/revisions\/9189"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=9185"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=9185"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.chefbuzu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=9185"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}